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Rik Site Admin

Joined: 07 Oct 2005 Last Visit: 27 Apr 2025 Posts: 1933 Location: California
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Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 1:23 pm Post subject: My Mattel Football hack (made the 'screen' larger) |
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This was mentioned in another thread, and someone wanted to see pics of it... This was originally a working Mattel Football, but a couple of the LEDs had been damaged and no longer worked (once you touch one, it's toast... But that's how I got it). So I figured it would be fun to try to make an external display for it. I meant to make a 'nice looking' one eventually, but I wanted to see if it work first, so this was my prototype (and the only one I ever made). After making the board, I thought it would be funny to mount it in the handheld game and carry it around at Classic Gaming Expo playing it... Got a lot of fun comments on it...
Here's the front, just after turning the game on, ready to play:
And showing the score when pressing one of the score buttons:
And the back side with all the wiring...
Another thing I thought of doing was replacing the LEDs with the tiny surface mount ones they make these days... Maybe bright blue or white, just to be weird.
See this thread:
http://www.handheldmuseum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1752
to see how the professionals do it...
Rik |
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nicknicknickandnick Bandai FL Burgertime
Joined: 24 Oct 2005 Last Visit: 18 May 2014 Posts: 107
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Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 2:40 pm Post subject: |
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lol, that's larger alright, more so than I expected!
OK now I have an image in my mind of giant lights on a real football field hooked up in that manner, and someone up in the stands playing it. |
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slydc Entex Crazy Climber
Joined: 24 Sep 2011 Last Visit: 16 Oct 2012 Posts: 66 Location: QC, Canada
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Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 8:04 pm Post subject: |
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Cool!! You finally posted some pictures of your Mattel Football mod.
Looks even bigger than i imagined and for a prototype, hats off!
I was going to mention if you would ever do a better display/casing
of your mod but after reading/seeing the over-sized Mattel Soccer
that you recently got, i think you'll never going to finish it which would
be a real shame.
Just a question: do you use a 9v battery or a 9v power supply since
the big display uses bigger LEDs ? If you use a 9v battery, how long
does it last ?
So many questions & projects, so little time...
--- Sly DC --- |
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blanka Atari Cosmos
Joined: 14 Dec 2010 Last Visit: 12 Mar 2025 Posts: 562 Location: Eindhoven, the Netherlands
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Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 9:35 pm Post subject: |
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With other colour LED's be careful that the voltage is different, and at higher brightness the current can be higher. The current limiting resistor (is it on the board or inside the chip? if there are many similar resistors on the board, they might be outside the chip) has to be changed to match your LED. What value do they have now?
For example a red LED works between 1.5-2V, where a blue or white one needs aroudn 3V to operate. |
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Rik Site Admin

Joined: 07 Oct 2005 Last Visit: 27 Apr 2025 Posts: 1933 Location: California
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Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 12:33 am Post subject: |
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slydc wrote: | I was going to mention if you would ever do a better display/casing
of your mod but after reading/seeing the over-sized Mattel Soccer
that you recently got, i think you'll never going to finish it which would
be a real shame. |
Actually, it might motivate me to re-do this... I might even use a fully working Football so I can have the display working on both the handheld and the larger display, that's actually kind of cool to see...
I don't think I'd make anything as big as the Soccer, but something like the size of an Adventure Vision with the actual game mounted in the front... Or maybe just make a 1-foot tall version of the game, fully self-contained an playable.... That'd be cool.
slydc wrote: | Just a question: do you use a 9v battery or a 9v power supply since
the big display uses bigger LEDs ? If you use a 9v battery, how long
does it last ? |
Currently just using a regular battery. I think I carried it around for a couple of hours at CGE, and definitely noticed that the LEDs were getting harder to see at that point. I'm pretty sure that's a new battery in it in these pictures, so it's not exceptionally bright to begin with (I guess in all fairness, the real LEDs in the game aren't very bright either when you have the case off... Putting them in the dark cave of the game's display area definitely helps their appearance. )
blanka wrote: | With other colour LED's be careful that the voltage is different, and at higher brightness the current can be higher. The current limiting resistor (is it on the board or inside the chip? if there are many similar resistors on the board, they might be outside the chip) has to be changed to match your LED. What value do they have now?
For example a red LED works between 1.5-2V, where a blue or white one needs aroudn 3V to operate. |
Yeah, I figure there's more than slapping LEDs in there... I know the 'exotic' colors (blue, white) draw more power... Would they just be dimmer if I mounted them straight in the game? Or not work at all?
I'd have to look again, but I'm pretty sure there's only a couple of circuits visible on the board as it is (certainly not one resister per LED)... I believe the LEDs are 'scanned' though, so technically there's only one on at any given time (maybe 3 max, many of them share the same circuit on one side), so maybe only a few resistors would be needed? Stuff I gotta look into if I ever do it...
Rik |
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blanka Atari Cosmos
Joined: 14 Dec 2010 Last Visit: 12 Mar 2025 Posts: 562 Location: Eindhoven, the Netherlands
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Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 2:01 am Post subject: |
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Blue or white leds might not work at all at 1.5V.
Guess they are matrixed. So they either have a common anode or a common cathode. That would allow 1 resistor per group. But the resisters might as well be inside the controller. In that case, you can use optocouplers to switch higher loads, while maintaining a regular "LED" balast to the game itself. It also allows for a complete independant circuit. |
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Rik Site Admin

Joined: 07 Oct 2005 Last Visit: 27 Apr 2025 Posts: 1933 Location: California
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Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:14 am Post subject: |
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blanka wrote: | Blue or white leds might not work at all at 1.5V.
Guess they are matrixed. So they either have a common anode or a common cathode. That would allow 1 resistor per group. But the resisters might as well be inside the controller. In that case, you can use optocouplers to switch higher loads, while maintaining a regular "LED" balast to the game itself. It also allows for a complete independant circuit. |
Matrixed, that's the word I was looking for... Yeah, if you look at the picture of the back of the board, you can see the wiring diagram I drew on the card board: 3 rows, 9 columns. That's how they are wire up, 3 sets of commons on one side, 9 sets on the other... The score LEDs wire up in a similar way, and are only active when a button is pressed (which turns off the playfield LEDs...)
I'll have to experiment with all of this and see if I can get something cool to work...  |
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slydc Entex Crazy Climber
Joined: 24 Sep 2011 Last Visit: 16 Oct 2012 Posts: 66 Location: QC, Canada
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Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 10:14 pm Post subject: |
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I was thinking for using blue, green, etc...LEDs, why not make a small voltage "booster" circuitry with some few transistors ?
For each micro LED on a board, boost the voltage with a 2N2222 or 2N3904 ? Just a thought here since i do this to boost the video signal or invert it for old video game systems. |
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bomberpunk Gakken Dig Dug

Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Last Visit: 15 Mar 2021 Posts: 152 Location: new orleans, la
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Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 12:35 am Post subject: |
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wow, it looks like the numeric display was a complete pain in the rump. great job! _________________ cheers,
bp |
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